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Offline xXx

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Re: My oil change policy
Reply #10 on: December 24, 2019, 09:05:47 AM
Each person to there own. Firstly it takes me a while to do a thousand KM's . My used oil gets taken to my local VW dealer for recycling. I plan on keeping this bike a long time . 

Offline taximan62

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Re: My oil change policy
Reply #11 on: December 24, 2019, 12:23:32 PM
I have been riding and servicing my bikes for 30 + years and I put full synthetic in and ride 6 to 8 thousand kilometers before changing the oil and I change it before winter storage.  I have never had an engine failure, never burned oil and that is for every bike I have owned.

Changing every 1000 km is pointless and a waste of your money.  You are not doing your engine any harm following normal oil change intervals.  It may mentally make you feel better but your not going to see any benefit.

Online Oop North John

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Re: My oil change policy
Reply #12 on: December 24, 2019, 12:42:16 PM
*Originally Posted by taximan62 [+]
Changing every 1000 km is pointless and a waste of your money.  You are not doing your engine any harm following normal oil change intervals.  It may mentally make you feel better but your not going to see any benefit.

It'll make you feel mentally much worse if you strip the threads for the oil drain plug as it's been on and off so often  :003:

Hopefully the barely used oil is recycled  :305:

Offline OKZ

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Re: My oil change policy
Reply #13 on: January 07, 2020, 01:30:41 PM
I change the oil on all my bikes annually no matter the mileage. I rarely exceed the manufactures recommended mileage for an oil change since I ride multiple bikes throughout the year. I use synthetic and routinely change oil in all bikes around fall of every year. My peeps, say it's excessive but they are my bikes.   :028:
Technology: Man's ability to make simple things complicated.
2018 Z900RS - Hooligan bike
2019 BMW R1250GS - for travel and exploring

Offline m1shooter

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Re: My oil change policy
Reply #14 on: January 08, 2020, 10:10:08 PM
Unashamedly, I change my fluids at half the recommended mileage on all of my vehicles. Oil is cheap, internal engine parts are expensive. I'd happily club the last baby seal in the Arctic myself to secure the oil I need for my machines.

Online Hillie

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Re: My oil change policy
Reply #15 on: January 08, 2020, 11:32:26 PM
*Originally Posted by m1shooter [+]
Unashamedly, I change my fluids at half the recommended mileage on all of my vehicles. Oil is cheap, internal engine parts are expensive. I'd happily club the last baby seal in the Arctic myself to secure the oil I need for my machines.

Hehehe, I like the brash way you put it. :002:

I agree with your sentiments, if it saves the engine and internals longer, I'm happy. Bike also runs a little smoother on fresh oil, so there's another benefit. I change it myself, so even with the most expensive oil and a gold plated filter it's still cheaper than the shop. Plus I know I have a fresh crush washer and not overtorqued drain bolt.

Offline w00

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Re: My oil change policy
Reply #16 on: January 09, 2020, 02:53:21 AM
Honest question, if your dead set on changing oil every 1000, wouldn't an hour metre be a better reference, similar to the ones they use on motocross and enduro bikes?

Offline eccles

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Re: My oil change policy
Reply #17 on: January 09, 2020, 09:37:52 AM
i change my oil at half the recommended miles have done on all my bikes for a long time  (30 years or more) but not the filter i also put a magnet on the filter to stop steel particles from the gearbox being washed round the motor 

Offline Ove

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Re: My oil change policy
Reply #18 on: January 09, 2020, 06:40:06 PM
I always change before I get to the recommended mileages. But, I always wonder why really. I've never yet kept a bike long enough to reap the rewards! :157:

Offline sparkatron

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Re: My oil change policy
Reply #19 on: February 19, 2020, 07:10:18 PM
Its up to individuals what care regime they use (we all ride in different climates and conditions) but Its worth adding that new clean oil isn't necessarily perfectly clean oil. Engine manufacturers generally accept that particles of 20 micron (0.020mm) can pass through internals without much issue. Particles of 50 micron or above can cause problems or reduced engine life over time. Typical engine oils come new with particle size of 50 micron or more and as an engine is run it too creates its own particles. Try and find particle info from oil suppliers is nigh on impossible.

Standard OEM filters are designed to catch 95% of particles for their given rating  (under ISO 4548-12:2017 ) and are typically 30 or 40 micron. Most automotive filters also have a bypass valve which opens if too much pressure occurs on the filter (the filter is on the suction side of the pump so it gets clean oil to pump). Its better to give the engine a short spell of non filtered oil than not enough. This is why most filters don't run at 20 micron because if an engine is pushed hard or the filter has been in a while (i.e. has lost efficiency due to catching particles) then more bypass occurences will happen.

So oil that  has been run through an engine for a number of hours can be cleaner than when it was put in.
This is called Flushing and a lot of hydraulic applications in industry have flushing modes because to buy oil with a low particle spec is really expensive.

A lot of race teams will use a high flow filter (to keep flow rates high with high revs) and also use a high quality oil with low particle size.

Lastly, most filters pass the oil from the outer holes through the filter material and back to the pump through the centre hole. So if priming a filter manually bare this in mind and keep cleanliness high.

Hope some of this is useful.