DIY snatchy Throttle cure?

[Notsoaverageguy]

Ivan, your right they give a huge window. One of the reasons is partly for the exact same reason I pointed out. I didn’t get into this part cause my post was long already. But when manufacturers order their sensors (that they themselves don’t make ) they pay for an “acceptable” window of failure and accuracy. They settle on a cost that matches the level of bike (or car) they are marketing. So when you add up all they inaccuracy of all the sensors acting on the engine if they set a must have number hardly any sensors when combined would be in spec. Agreed they do try and give a large enough window of acceptance in the map but it doesn’t always work out.
EFI system when running looks at
TPS
CTS (coolant temp)
RPM
MAP (manifold atmospheric pressure)
ATS (air temp sensor)
O2 sensor
Speed sensor
And so on......  I do believe that some are more sensitive to the feeling than others but I do think it can be improved. Kawasaki did not give the green light (ha joke intended) on a jerky on off feeling on a bike they where going to sell as having a nostalgic look and feel to the original carbureted model. There test or beta bike had a perfect map, and I know for a fact if you looked at enough bikes on all there sensors, -many will match up to original design. Maybe you could put some on that  perfect map bike and they might still feel “snatchyness”. After all it is NOT a carbureted engine. The reason we don’t feel on and off in are family car is partly due to the fact there is so much weight being pushed and shoved it dampens a lot of the feel.
Just saying

[Oop North John]

Would a throttle tamer replicate the eccentric pulley? One like this: https://www.g2ergo.com/shop/g2-street-tamer-throttle-tube-kawasaki/

And do you think it would have any beneficial effect, apart from a possible placebo one?

[luishcorreia]

Originally Posted by Notsoaverageguy

Sorry this is going to go long. But if you suffer from what you think is a snatchy throttle (i dont, 2018 Cafe California) you might want to read this. First I will give my background so you can discern it is my pie hole I am talking out of. I was a Ford tech from before FI existed in production automobile, and was there for the learning curves, both Techs and the factory. They had same drivability issues as some of you are experiencing. I mean the exact same!!! meaning some customers complained and some didnt (most) on the exact same cars. Which got me to thinking why do some say they have it and some say they dont? And it dawned on me, maybe its the same problem as before. FIRST let me clarify I do NOT know this is the problem but got a pretty good idea and will explain why I think so.
1) EFI systems are all the same in the fact that they all run on sensors and processors that have perimeters. And yes re-flashing a computer  will sometimes cure it but its only really masking the cause. We had MASSIVE problems with TPS (throttle possition sensor) and throttle plate settings that drove everybody bonkers. They would set a perimeter in the processor and for safty and idle purposes it had to be a tight tolerance, that didnt always match the MAP and would piss off the computer which retaliated in lousy drivability.
Recently experienced this on my 06 ZX10R and immediately recognized the problem, and on THAT bike fixed it very quickly.
2) These problems are from idle stop onward. Maybe you dont recognize it as being that but I am willing to bet, that it is between the gears and when you are on and off the throttle. I again havnt ridden a RS with the problem so this is the big "IF"
 
Here is what is going on. The MAP says when the throttle plate is closed (fully warmed up and not using secondary butterflies or ABV (air bypass valve) the TPS should read ;example/ .45 volts. Great in the imaginary world of the engineers. Problem is (and I did have to adjust my idle screw because of occasional stalling) all the idle stop screws and TPS dont match up exactly. I am not going to go into why they dont, its cost related, nuff said. So when the computer sees the throttle plate closed and the TPS where it is not supposed to be it gets pissed off and runs its own map! The fix is easy TRUST ME.
By the book you would hook up a DVOM to the sensor lead + and ground the negative, find out what those engineers had in mind and adjust it to match (provided you idle was already set) and off you go. A much easier method on our RS is (the sensor is right there on the left side easy access. Loosen the 2 screws I think its marked in it present location, and move it one way or the other (make a note) just a touch. Go and ride. You can do this on the rode.  NO you cant hurt anything. Adjust till you make the computer happy. Again I had the exact same problem on my ZX10R. Much harder to get to the screws but it was solved.
Anyone can do this if you know how to run a screw driver (hand held no gun please) I am away fro home now so dont have access to Mona or I would get the DVOM readings for you. So if you do this and are successful please pass it on to the rest.
Just saying.

NO ... i didnt understood anything. Can you explain whats te step by step actions for us layman?

[Notsoaverageguy]

Yeah so I watched the videos IMHO doesn’t match what I am talking about. 1st that’s not our bike and 2 I don’t know what other modifications are on that bike. My bike NEVER backfires like that. It looks to me to be a lean misfire which most assuredly can come from shutting fuel down, but is usually preceded by a lean mixture to begin with. AGAIN  I am not saying that a reflash is bad or wrong for that matter. Simple a band aid for something else. I would love to see that same test done with our stock bikes. With that said all I am offering is a possibility to those who want to tinker. And I am sorry if all the explanation is over someone’s head. It might be best for them to reflash if they didn’t understand what was said.
Just saying

[Notsoaverageguy]

Seriously your bike backfires like that. I am not trying to be combative. I really want to know for myself. Part of learning. I honestly am not trying to have a pissing match. I respect all who try to help as you do.

[H1ELRZRXZ900RS]

I checked the throttle position sensor and it looks like I would have to take off the top starboard motor mount plate to access it. Something I don't think I'll try without a factory manual ($91.00 ouch).

I think the problem is sort of like the clutch on my Scion XB...it has about 1/2" of movement between fully disengaged and fully engaged. I stalled it plenty until my left foot talked to my right foot and adapted. Same thing with my right hand and my left. I'm sure that I'll still get caught once in a while but coordination and some conscientious throttle control and it will work itself out.

Sure do love this thing!!!

[flynbulldog]

Originally Posted by H1ELRZRXZ900RS

I think the problem is sort of like the clutch on my Scion XB...it has about 1/2" of movement between fully disengaged and fully engaged. I stalled it plenty until my left foot talked to my right foot and adapted. Same thing with my right hand and my left. I'm sure that I'll still get caught once in a while but coordination and some conscientious throttle control and it will work itself out.

Sure do love this thing!!!

This answer is just not good enough for me. There are too many really great bikes out there to waste my riding time trying to concentrate on a bike that is difficult to enjoy. When I stop thinking about the bike and start enjoying the ride I know its right. and if this bike wont allow that then its just not something I'll suffer.

Ivan's tune has made the bike a whole lot better for me. This week I'm going to do a new map with his airbox mod and see where that goes. but for now the bike has changed enough with Ivan's help that it is finally really enjoyable to ride. I'll let you know if the new mods help even more.

[Mark Kazman]

Originally Posted by Oop North John

Would a throttle tamer replicate the eccentric pulley? One like this: https://www.g2ergo.com/shop/g2-street-tamer-throttle-tube-kawasaki/

And do you think it would have any beneficial effect, apart from a possible placebo one?

The purpose of the throttle tamer is to dampen the snatchiness in first gear for the few millimeters of twisting the throttle - from idle to initial movement.  Will not have an affect for the rest of range.  It's good for having some give within the friction zone, for say, slow manoeuvres.

[silverjoe]

Originally Posted by Notsoaverageguy

Yeah so I watched the videos IMHO doesn’t match what I am talking about. 1st that’s not our bike and 2 I don’t know what other modifications are on that bike. My bike NEVER backfires like that. It looks to me to be a lean misfire which most assuredly can come from shutting fuel down, but is usually preceded by a lean mixture to begin with. AGAIN  I am not saying that a reflash is bad or wrong for that matter. Simple a band aid for something else. I would love to see that same test done with our stock bikes. With that said all I am offering is a possibility to those who want to tinker. And I am sorry if all the explanation is over someone’s head. It might be best for them to reflash if they didn’t understand what was said.
Just saying

Do you have a stock exhaust

[silverjoe]

Originally Posted by Dirty Dave

I just have to say how much I appreciate Ivan's input to this group.

 

It is refreshing to have someone with Ivan's knowledge and experience rather than opinions